I had a brief two-day window before I had to be back in Budapest, and had read lot of great things about Pecs, so I went south to see it for myself. A three hour train ride away, Pecs tends to share a more mediterranean climate with its southern neighbors, Serbia and Croatia.

In 2010, it was named a European Capital of Culture. What I gather this means is they receive a healthy dose of money from the European Union for civic and cultural improvements... Pecs looked to have spent the money well. The city was full of lots of immaculate and well designed parks and plazas. A few new cultural centers were built and the museums were all revitalized. I wish I could have been there for the warmer months to see the parks and plazas in action...

Upon arriving I checked into the Nap Hostel (the only one in town) and checked with the manager to see if Pecs had a football team and if they had a game while I was visiting... Yes on both counts. I dropped my bags and headed out the stadium. I scored a prime seat for 2200 florint, or ten dollars... though I never used it. It was too damn cold. So I paced the upper terrace the whole time, with all the old timers. I was reminded that I was in eastern Europe early as I passed over 100 armed guards and the way in and saw flares being set off behind the visitors goal to begin the match. Beyond that it was all pretty tame. It was an uneventful game, Pecs, the underdog, definitely blew a few chances, and Videoton (out of Budapest) hit the post once on their only chance. Videoton had the better of play, with the Hungarian Prime Minister in attendance for the match.... I think he heard I would be there.

I spent Sunday walking around town and out to the Zsolnay Cultural Center, a former ceramics factory, converted to an arts and university cultural center. It was a dynamic and active place, as families gathered to play games, eat food from vendors and enjoy the public spaces. I dropped into the Basilica just before closing and visited ‘Museum Street’, taking in the work at the Modern Hungarian Museum. After I walked up the hill behind town and did some wine tasting in a terrace vineyard overlooking the city.

It was a great little excursion to Pecs- the European cultural capital in 2010 had lots of civic improvement- visibility of upgrade in the civic parks.
I wish i could be there in the warmer months to see the plazas in action. The next day I caught the 3:15 train back into Budapest...